Tuesday, October 6, 2009

FREE SOLAR HOT WATER



Free Solar Hot Water
Although this was built to heat a pool it can be used for other applications as well.




This is the result of an experiment to see if I could build a hot water solar panel absolutely free. AND IT WORKS!




I do tend to salvage more than the average person but if you look around your garage or shop you may find that you do as well. You can also modify to match what you have. I will post the drawings for the next proto type very soon that will cost around $100 or less to build using 1/2 copper tubing. The drawings are free and the more you can salvage or reuse the cheaper it will be. Let me know how you do.




I had salvaged the following:


(2) sets of old windows from a neighbor that was upgrading


(1) 50' 5/8"garden hose with a smashed end (not the best choice but it was free)


(1) gal. of roofing patch (left over from a repair job)


(2) male replacement hose ends


(1) old sheet of plywood


misc. PVC T's and valves


(2)steel reinforced washing machine hoses


several scrap 2x4's (various sizes)


several scrap 4x4's (various sizes)




The frame was built to accommodate three of the four window sections, if I added the fourth it would have been over 8' in length and more difficult to move around. As it is I can easily move to store or relocate. Once the frame is built drill two 5/8" holes in one side and laid out the hose so that the entire 50' fits into the box as flat as it can be to allow for maximum exposure. Cut the ends off of the hose and pushed them through the two drilled holes in the frame and attach the replacement male ends. Next stir the roof patch well and spread over the hose covering as much of the inside framework as possible. Insert the window frames and screw from the side. This will allow you to remove them for repair or to modify at anytime in the future (you will note a few walnuts in the photos from a neighbors tree and a crack in one piece of glass). Chalk the frames to water proof.
The stand is just 4x4's cut on angle and attached to a scrap piece of phywood with a 2x4 at the bottom to hold the panel in place. The panel is not attached to the stand. Think of an easel.

I will clean up this unit over the winter by staining the wood with a waterproof stain for a very aesthetic look and salvage something I can use to protect the glass.




Note the input and output hoses are washing machine hoses that are steel braided to help protect the exposed lines and they are designed for hot water.
















I used a 1" valve with a 3/4" tread adapter and tapped into the high side of pumps output line. The valve allows me to control the flow of water through the panel and also allows me to shut off the water when temps are acceptable. The return line tapped into the low side of the output. I wasn't sure at first if this would work well but it did. Next year I may replace it with a downward 45 degree tap that should allow less restriction on the flow.
This pump normally runs at 10PSI and there was absolutely no stress on the hoses.
When testing ( full sun) the panel rose to 175 degrees without the water flowing. When the pump was running, the panel temp. stayed around 135 degrees and the water flowed out between 100 & 110 degrees. Due to the size of the plumbing the cold mixes with the hot at an estimated ratio of 10:1. The pump only runs for 8 hours during the hottest part of the day (here 10am to 6pm) and with the help of a solar cover used at night the water temp stays between 86 & 90 degrees which is what I set out to do.
Although you can control the flow to the panel I normally leave it fully open as this is the range I was looking for.

Good luck if you decide to take on this endeavor. It was well worth the time.

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